Fluorescent Penetration Enhancers Reveal Complex Interactions among the Enhancer, Drug, Solvent, and Skin.

Skin penetration/permeation enhancers facilitate drug delivery through the skin barrier. However, the specific mechanisms that govern the enhancer interactions with the skin, drug, and donor solvent are not fully understood. We designed and synthesized fluorescent-labeled enhancers by attaching 7-nitrobenzo[c][1,2,5]oxadiazol-4-yl (NBD) groups to 6-aminohexanoic acid esters. These NBD esters (applied at a 1% concentration) enhanced the permeation of the model drugs theophylline and hydrocortisone through human skin in vitro up to 6.6- and 3.9-times, respectively. The enhancement effects were strongly affected by the ester chain length (C8-C12) and the polarity of the donor solvent. Using high-performance liquid chromatography with fluorescence detection, no NBD esters were detected in the acceptor buffer, but their hydrolysis product, NBD acid, was detected, whereas both acid and esters were found in the skin. The enhancer hydrolysis occurred in the lower stratum corneum and epidermis; more hydrophilic NBD acid, which is an inactive enhancer, penetrated deeper. This illustrates the principle of biodegradable enhancers. The enhancer concentrations in the skin depended not only on the enhancer chain length and the donor solvent, but also on the drug used. Thus, the drug, when coapplied with the enhancer, modulates the enhancer penetration into the skin and, consequently, its effect. Finally, active (NBD-C8 ester) and inactive (NBD acid) enhancers were visualized in human skin by confocal laser scanning microscopy. Both compounds were found mostly in the stratum corneum intercellular spaces, suggesting that although both are located within the skin barrier lipids, only the active ester is able to effectively interact with the lipids, which was proved by infrared spectroscopy of enhancer-treated stratum corneum. This proof-of-concept study illustrates the use of fluorescent enhancers to obtain insight into the skin penetration/permeation process; interactions among the enhancer, drug, solvent, and skin; and enhancer metabolism.

Permeability and microstructure of cholesterol-depleted skin lipid membranes and human stratum corneum.

Cholesterol (Chol) is one of the major skin barrier lipids. The physiological level of Chol in the stratum corneum (SC) appears to exceed its miscibility with other barrier lipids, as some Chol is phase separated. Chol synthesis is essential for epidermal homeostasis, yet the role of these Chol domains in SC permeability is unknown. We investigated the impact of Chol depletion on the permeability properties and microstructure of model membranes and human SC. X-ray powder diffraction of membranes constructed from isolated human skin ceramides or synthetic ceramides confirmed that only approximately half of the normal Chol amount can be incorporated in either long or short periodicity lamellar phases. The long periodicity lipid arrangement persisted even in the absence of Chol. Infrared spectroscopy suggested that Chol had negligible effects on the lipid chain order and packing at physiological skin temperature. Chol depletion of the model membranes or isolated human SC did not compromise the barrier function to water and two model permeants. On the contrary, the membrane with the Chol content reduced to 40% of the normal value, where no separated Chol was observed, was significantly less permeable than the control. Thus, a 0.4:1:1 M ratio of Chol/ceramides/fatty acids appears sufficient for skin lipids to limit water loss and prevent the entry of environmental substances. We speculate that the SC Chol domains may have roles in the skin other than barrier function.